Dear TanningBeds.org,

I have a Sunliner 3600 made by concept quartz, but has a number to call on it for tan systems, inc. The bed is a commercial tanning bed that was made in roughly 1997.

I have had the bed for 6 years and haven’t had any problems. However, yesterday it started flicking off and on, while the tanning bed was turned on. Once it started flickering I turned the bed off. It did this 4 to 5 times and kept getting progressivly worse. Now I cannot get the bed to turn on at all. I was hoping you could help me diagnosing the problem. Any help you could provide I would greatly appreciate it.

Thanks so much!
Chris

(the visitor then emailed me again before I could answer)

I just emailed you a question a few hours ago and I found out some more information about my problem. I found a loose wire on the relay. I attached the loose wire back to the relay but I still can’t start my bed. On one side of the relay I have power, however on the opposing side I don’t have any power (which is also the side that the lose connection is on). When I push the button on top of the relay the fans turn on, but I still don’t have any power on the one side of the relay. Do you think I need a new relay? Or do you think something else could be affecting my relay?

Chris
———————————————————————–

Dear Chris,

That sounds like a bad relay. Most of the time, relays are labelled as such:

T1, T2, T3, T4 = Line side (hot from the wall)
L1, L2, L3, L4 = Load side (hot when relay is on only)
A1, A2 (coil, when both are hot, relay is on)

Note, the T side and L side may be reversed, it will work either way. Many times you can smell a burn smell at the relay when it is bad. If you are working with a true 230 volt bed (three wires to the wall, white, black, green) and you disconnect A1 and A2, then you should get 230V (more or less) BETWEEN then when the bed is on. Likely, one will always be hot (120V) and when you turn the bed on, the other one goes hot, thus turning the relay on. This is why you have to disconnect to get a good reading, as it will always shown each havin 120V when off as the power flows THROUGH the coil and you get the reading on the other leg as a phantom reading. Removing them isolates them.

(Legal Disclaimer) Obviously, you should never disconnect wires with the bed connected to power, or measure the voltage with the bed hot unless you really know what you are doing, ie: a licensed electrician.

But you should get power flowing through the relay on both sides, where there is a wire on the LINE side, once the plunger on the relay is pressed DOWN. If you have the relay fully activated and there is no flow, you have a bad contact. If you are getting full 230V between A1 and A2 when the timer is on but the relay won’t activate, then you likely have a bad coil on the relay to boot. It is entirely possible to have both problems on the same relay, as they could have happened at the same time, although it is usually a single problem. Since the bed was working before (ie: you didn’t just buy the bed) then I would say your instict is probably right, and it is likely the relay.

You can find the manufacturer on the label that is on the back of the bed. This will tell you were to start to find a relay. They can range up to $80 or more. Tan Systems should be able to get you the relay, as they have parts for almost every bed, and they have a good reputation for getting the right part. They were likely the dealer that sold the bed originally, as many manufacturers don’t sell direct, and instead sell through dealers. I would call them, tell them you spoke to someone at TanningBeds.org, see if they come to the same conclusion as to the problem, and then order the part. From the sound of it, you will likely be able to replace the part yourself with the proper precautions.

Dennis